Re: 88 505 N9TE continuing saga
From: Bill Doyle (bdoyle1492@earthlink.net)
Date: Thu 28 Feb 2002 - 12:48:27 EST
Today turned out to be a really nice day to work on the car. I don't
mind the cold so much, except when it is really windy.
Joe Grubbs wrote:
Hang on, now we need to carefully trace all this stuff and find out
why you're getting these whack readings. Try not to freeze! Just take
your time and take notes... Okay, with key off and previous test
conditions check the following:
1) Check the resistance across the injectors (or atleast one of
them). It should be ~3 ohms.
I AM GETTING 2.4 OHMS- CHECK
2) Check continuity between the B+ pin on one of the injector's
connectors and wire #31 at the injection relay socket. It should be
close to zero ohms ("00.0 ohms"). If it is not, there is a connector
in the middle of the injector harness--it is a white 8 pin connector
near the brake booster. The other end of the harness should go behind
the fuel rail. Pull that connector apart and make sure the contacts
are good, etc.
I AM GETTING 9 OHMS. I LOCATED THE WHITE CONNECTOR, AND CLEANED IT. SAME
THING. I MIGHT ADD THAT THE BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE WAS POSITIONED SUCH THAT
IT LOOKED LIKE IT MIGHT BE PLACING STRESS ON THIS WIRE CLUSTER, SO I
REPOSITIONED THE WIRES WHEN I RECONNECTED. NO DIFFERENCE.
3) If that checks out, check continuity between the two output pins
of the injection relay itself. These pins are bridged internally. All
you need to do is locate which pins that wires #31/94 and #32E plug
into. This should be around zero ohms ("00.0 ohms"). If it too high,
try a new injection relay.
ON THIS ONE, I AM GETTING THE .OL M OHMS
4) If that checks out, we can effectively rule out the B+ supply to
the injectors. There is one more test you can perform, though it may
not necessary. Check continuity between wire #32E at the relay socket
and pin 9 of the injection ECU. You guessed it--should be around zero
ohms.
I AM GETTING 00.0 OHMS
5) Next, check continuity between that injector's negative terminal
(the terminal opposite the one that read +12v before) and one of the
4 outer pins on the injector resistor connector. It should be close
to zero ohms. If not, recheck that white connector mentioned above.\
ON THIS ONE, I AM GETTING ~2.5 OHMS ON ALL EXCEPT ONE, WHERE I AM
GETTING NOTHING.
6) Next, check continuity between the center injector resistor pin
and pin 12 on the ECU connector. This should also be close to zero
ohms.
I AM GETTING 00.0 OHMS
7) As a final test, check continuity between the same injector's
negative terminal and pin 12 on the ECU connector. You should get
around 6-7 ohms.
I AM GETTING .0L M OHMS
If all these tests check out, your previous test(s) were tainted
somehow. Even if an injector were electrically "open", your final
reading at 9&12 should be close to reading you got in test #7.
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