Re: Re: 505 V6 1987 Oil pressure switch
From: Midvally (midvally@shaw.ca)
Date: Fri 29 Mar 2002 - 14:51:08 EST
The female spade connectors can be helped a great deal by the insertion of a
small thin file and a slight squeeze on the outside of the connector with a
pair of pliers. I found a very small file and ground it to the width of a
spade connector to fit in the hole. A couple of strokes is usually enough
to remove the corrosion.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "aaron11243" <Aaronbheld@aol.com>
To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: 505 V6 1987 Oil pressure switch
> I've replaced quite a bit of the "disconnect connectors" under the
> hood of my 91 505 with ZDJL, esp the ones near the ex manifold. the
> wires are also brittle, and some have needed replacement. Also the
> female disconnects on the wires are impossible to clean, and the male
> connetors on sensors , valves, etc get dirty. Since the sensors work
> by resistance, corrosion can mess up the values.
>
> -Aaron
> 1991 505 SW8
>
> --- In peugeot-L@y..., Steve Margolis <v6peugeot@y...> wrote:
> > I'm almost embarrassed to confess that for the first four years +
> that I have owned my ZN3J, I
> > amost never had oil, water temp, or STOP lights come on with the
> ignition. I have now owned the
> > car 4 years and two months, and those lights have been working for
> the last two weeks. I had The
> > Shop in Columbus replace the alternator (finally, after months of
> flickering lights, and while
> > the alternator was off, Ron put a new end on the wire to the oil-
> pressure sender, which is what
> > you're thinking is the oil temp. sensor, on the block behind the
> alternator. I don't know where
> > the oil temp. sensor is, and a quick look through the ZN3J engine
> manual didn't reveal it, but
> > mine has worked consistently.
> >
> > I said almost never above because two years ago, when the
> alternator was replaced, the wire was
> > apparently disturbed, and the oil, water, STOP lights flickered
> while I was driving. I got under
> > the car and wiggled the wire a little and didn't see them again for
> another two years. I'm
> > fascinated by how the oil level indicator works consistently now,
> instead of occasionally, and
> > how the whole arc of that gauge lights up when I turn on the key.
> >
> > Steve Margolis
> > who's wondering after looking at Jim Lill's V6 page (thanks Jim)
> what it would take to make the
> > North American V6 achieve the 170 HP of the Euro version.
> >
> > Kit Foster wrote:
> >
> > Where the heck is it? While replacing the water pump I
> discovered why the oil light
> > never lights: sensor wire is broken and does not connect to the
> pressure switch. The
> > rest of the circuit is fine, as a ground to the wire turns on the
> oil and STOP lights in the
> > inst. binnacle.
> >
> > But I can't figure out where the wire is supposed to connect.
> Behind the alternator,
> > unsee-able, is what I think is the oil temp sensor. At least it
> has a wire connected to it,
> > and the wire comes out of the same harness as the broken wire.
> But I've felt all around
> > that area and can't find anything that feels like a pressure
> sensor that has lost its wire.
> > There are a couple of unused non-electrical connections, though,
> like a small hose
> > barb that comes out of the block and goes nowhere at all. Those
> of you who have had
> > a ZN3J out in the daylight may have some wisdom for me.
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > The previous posts about water pump replacement and hose
> equivalents were
> > invaluable. Many thanks!
> >
> > Kit
>
>
>
> Recommended format for your email subject lines:
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>
> Examples:
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> 405 Mi16 89 Ignition Coil source?
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