But I don't see where you get 'front ends and automatic transmissions that
are much too delicate'. What do you think is fragile in the front end? The
a-arms are forged I-beams, not stampings as on most cars; the steering
knuckles are forged, and the bushings are substantial and long-lasting. The
only weakness I know of is the spring seat on the steering swivel being prone
to rust, but that shouldn't be a problem in Texas, and the factory warranty
has been extended indefinitely on rusted front swivels. The right side rack
boot is a little chintzy. But I'd like to to know what passenger car has a
stronger front end.
The ZF 3-speed auto trannies, which ran from 1966 through 85 are very tough
as well, easily built to exceed 200,000 miles, with regular fluid changes.
Of course there is the very sad problem with the early 4HP22s (86 on, 505),
I think probably almost half of which were replaced under warranty before
50,000 miles (any hard data, anyone?). Definitely problematic, but I think
not because of being delicate, or too lightly built, as I think the 4HP14 in
the 405 is. I think the problems are mainly due to the one design flaw in
the front clutch pack, which must be corrected during overhaul, or not
stressed by revving the engine in N or P above 1500rpm, as BMW pointed out.
And the fluid must be kept clean.
On the other hand, the driveshaft, especially behind the V6, has been wiping
front splines (both V6 driveshafts--5-speed and automatic--are unique, and
not interchangeable with any 4-cyl criveshafts, due to differences in
length).
The u-joint is at risk in 505 wagons, though it is the same part as the 504,
which had virtually no problems with it. It is expensive, because both yokes
are included, rather than just the center spider, which is replaced
separately on lesser cars (the Peugeot yokes are subject to damage if the
u-joint is not replaced promptly upon failure). The 505 spider is the same
as the 203/403/404 one, which I have used on occasion, in 505 yokes, but PMA
won't sell just the spider any more. (Long ago they sold the spider, and its
component parts right down to the 80 individual needles in the bearings, for
the 403.) But, they probably should have strengthened the thing as the
wagons got heavier and more powerful over the course of the past 50 years.
As for the two fuel pumps, I think that most high-pressure fuel injection
systems use two pumps. The main pump under the car is practically permanent,
except for attack by road salt. If it makes noise, it is telling you that
the filter is dirty or the in-tank pump is not feeding it properly. The
in-tank pumps are much longer-lasting than they were in the first 505s, and
are not a serious expense, (unless you buy them from Peugeot, especially for
the wagon.)
If there are relays for the injection and ignition ecu's, they last pretty
well, because I have never had a request for one. The fuelpump relay is
tachymetric, and an important safety device to stop the pump if the engine
stops before you shut it off. They are moderately troublesome, and Peugeot
has obsoleted the pre-86 one in favor of the late Bosch relay with a hokey
expensive conversion loom for the early models. I still sell the original
type for the pre-86 cars, because the conversion costs more without working
noticeably better.
If your hood shakes at idle, you have a loose hood or one rough-running
N9TEA. Maybe you need a tune-up. For your edification, the turbo wagon is
known as the Peugeot from hell around here, for all its problems. But ride
and handling are not among them, generally.
By the way, if you are sure you want to soften the ride, which is stiff due
to the front shocks (not the springs, which are actually soft), you can drop
in a pair of Peugeot's replacement cartridges #5202.90, at $162./pr, which
are recommended for everything but turbo and cars with ABS, but will fit
your turbo wagon swivels and soften the ride. They are easy to install
because they are sealed cartridges. (Send me your old parts--I'll see that
they have an appreciative home!) And if you wish your car to wallow as well,
you can disconnect the rear anti-roll bar, and swap your front one for one
from a GL. Swap your wheels for some 6J14s, let some air out of the tires,
and Voila you've practically got a Buick.
Brian Holm