Some preliminary thoughts, without benefit of due consideration:
Good idea to swap the whole front end, that will give you the right spring
rate and height. There is a chance that the sharp-turn geometry will be a
little off because of the wagon's longer wheelbase, I suppose.
The problem comes with the distance the engine has to come forward. I think
that one inch is about all I would recommend for the u-joint extension and
spacer, if unsupported.
However, if for the spacer we used the machined rear of another tailshaft
housing with the bearing in it, and kept both bearings, with the seal
removed from behind the original bearing to allow lubrication to the second
one, I think we could extend 2.1 inches, the maximum we can get out of using
a u-joint front yoke as the extender. We are dealing here with
considerably extended bolt lengths through the spacer. These might have to
be stronger than the originals. And the machining and welding on the u-joint
adaptation must be extremely accurate.
You will have the ABS swivels, so you will need at least the longer tierods
from the sedan, if not the whole rack. The ABS calipers will work without
ABS. But are you sure the engine will clear the brake Mastervac? The
variable ratio pinionvalve from the sedan will work without VR steering.
Will the v6 headpipe assembly clear the wagon transmission mount? And adapt
smoothly to the rest of the wagon exhaust?
Don't forget to compare the tooth count on the speedo worm gears on the
tranny tailshafts. If they aren't the same you'll hate your speedo.
Brian
At 12:14 PM 10/1/97 -0600, ftc-nor.n34@smtp.cnet.navy.mil wrote:
>
> Brian. No sorrys needed. My skin is so thick, nothing penetrates.
> I'm just glad you are there to impart your knowledge. Keep it up.
>
> I actually changed the Driveshaft, not the Torque tube. The damn
> thing stripped on the transmission end a few years ago.
>
> Next subject. Before you get in a hissy fit or anything. I'm not
> really as dumb as I look. My idea of just moving the rear axle
> forward a couple of inches. That's about the dumbest idea I've had
> this week. I know. It won't work that way.
>
> An update on my engine swap. It's still a go as far as I can see. I
> did some more measuring of things. I have to change out a few more
> things. With the engine sitting towards the rear, there will not be
> enough room for the exhaust pipes to get between the bellhousing and
> the steering column. There also is not enough room between the
> bellhousing and the steering rack to move the engine/transmission
> forward by the necessary 2.3 inches. Would you care to guess why?
> Yes indeed, Peugeot used a different crossmember in the two vehicles.
> Near as I can tell from all my measurements, in order to make it all
> work and have the engine in the compartment where it should be is to
> replace the front cross member. As I told my wife last night, "this
> engine swap has just become a little more difficult."
>
> Tell me if you think this is a good idea. I plan now to swap the
> entire front suspension assemblies. 16 bolts and it all comes out.
> I've triple checked everything and the bolt patterns are the same.
> This will put the front crossmember where it should be for the engine,
> there will be enough room for the oil pan and all the other underside
> stuff to fit, the exhaust pipes will fit, the cooling fan will be the
> proper distance from the radiator. Plain and simple, everything will
> fit the way it did in the sedan. I will bolt the engine/trans
> together and then put it in the car. At this point I anticipate there
> will be about 2.3 inches of empty space behind the transmission where
> it should bolt to the U-joint. I plan on measuring this carefully and
> then contract you to manufacture the necessary spacer and modify the
> U-joint.
>
> Good plan you think?
>
> Ray
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject:
>Author: "Brian Holm Peugeotholm" <peugeots@plainfield.bypass.com> at MILNET
>Date: 9/30/97 4:00 PM
>
>
>Sorry, Ray. I didn't mean to snap.
>
>Did you change the torque tube or the driveshaft on your sedan?
>
>Brian
>
>At 02:17 PM 9/30/97 -0600, ftc-nor.n34@smtp.cnet.navy.mil wrote:
>>
>> Karl. By all means check it out. Definately greese the heck out of
>> it. $270.00 was for part only. That was at the Peugeot Dealer,
>> before I knew of the existance of Brian H. I would suspect he can get
>> it to you much less. Don't mention my name to him though, I'm not on
>> his good side right now as I did not follow his advice. I've been
>> severely scolded. But you know us Peugeot owners have always been
>> rather hard headed. Changing the Torque tube is not all that hard.
>> I've done it. My swap was on a sedan which I believe is more
>> difficult. Ray
>>
>Brian Holm, Peugeotholm
>Supplying parts for Peugeots only, since 1969
>Plainfield, VT 802.454.7132 Fax 454.1310
>
>
>
>
>
>
Brian Holm, Peugeotholm
Supplying parts for Peugeots only, since 1969
Plainfield, VT 802.454.7132 Fax 454.1310