For my Mi16, I used Anco wiper refills, part number R22-N or something
close. It is the NARROW refill option. I was impressed with the way that
they fit into my Peugeot blades. In fact, my old Peugeot blades' rubber was
lower or something and that had caused the plastic aero wing to actually hit
the right side glass and scuff the glass at the very bottom of the
windscreen. After fitting the Anco refills, the plastic aero wing now stays
off the glass. I found the refills at Parts America quite by accident one
day. They may also sell them at Wal*Mart stores.
For the 1989 Mi16 wheel size, 14 inch wheels were fitted originally at the
factory. There IS a speedo error in stock form, which Peugeot had issued a
tech bulletin to correct here in the states, where the gear inside the
transaxle had been replaced with a proper sized gear to correct the speedo
readings. My speedo needs the gear. It reads 10% too high. I had the
pleasure of calibrating it both at the 1/4 mile strip and at a little radar
feedback sign that a local town had placed at the roadside which displayed
your current speed. I had some fun with that thing, going from 30-55 in
second gear and watching the display keep up with me. It was in a 30 MPH
zone, and once I got over 40 the digits in the display went from yellow to
red. I laughed and then started to wonder if the dang thing had been
equipped with a CAMERA!
The 15 inch wheels could actually bring about the correction of the 10%
speedo error.
So nobody in here could suggest FWD CV joint troubleshooting techniques for
solving what side of my car needs a new shaft on? I get noise when turning
left, and am thinking that it's my right shaft that is getting bad. I had
run for 6-8 months with a split open boot on the outer joint on that one 2
years ago.
Okay, here is some news for 405 sunroof leakage. I had water come into my
overhead switches 2 times in the past year and set out to verify that the
hoses to drain water were actually working on the front side of the car. I
poured some water into the right side track and then observed the water
emerging from the bottom rear side of the right front fender. On the left,
that did not work; the water just stayed there. I had to find out how to get
to the drain hose. If you open the door wide, you can see a 1.5 cm diameter
hose coming out of the fram of the car just past half way down the door. It
sticks out straight. You cannot get to it there but you can see it. If you
disconnect the lower part of the plastic inner fender liner behind the left
front wheel, you can pull it away from the steel fender well. You can then
pull the little stubby hose toward the front of the car and place a blow
nozzle into it and launch a charge of compressed air (or any inert gas you
can find) into the hose to reverse-clear it. When I did it to my car, it
blew all kinds of junk out of the line. It actually shot some of it clear
all the way to the rear window glass.. After that, I poured water again into
the drain collector and observed good flow down to the fender well.
For the 405 clock lamp, just remove the dash hood, which sits over the
driver's side. Pull the dummy switch plug from the center of the left side
of the switch plugs where the fog lamp and cruise switches live, and remove
the 10mm head bolt. Do the same at both ends of the right side of the dash
hood, at each end of the switches (hazard lamps, rear window defog, etc).
The hood will then come up easily. The clock has a twist in bulb holder. I
paid around US$5.00 each for lamp assemblies, and then came into buying a
used instrument cluster at a junk yard (wreckers) which solved all bulb
replacement worries for year to come.
I want to replace my stock ignition coil with a hi perf accel coil, but the
stock one has 4 wires going into it for control and the accel coil only uses
2 wires. I wish I knew what all the wires did in the stock coil!
Later,
Mike Taylor, Nashua, NH