PS: had to break into 4 parts due to size limitations.
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Subject: 89 405 Mi16 timng belt renewal procedure:
part 1 of four-part documentation
I was asked by another list member, Mike Savage, if I would want to
document the whole process of replacing the timing belt on my 89 Mi16.
At the time I said I might do it if, on refitting, everything worked
right. Well, it looks like it did. Just returned late this evening
from a test ride of about 70 miles and the car ran fine. Heres a
rundown of what/how I did:. (critical points are marked with asterisk)
1) remove left road wheel and remove wheel-well cover.
2) remove drivebelt
3) unscrew top timing belt cover allen screws, loosen bottom
timing cover bolts onto which the legs of the top cover slide
4) support engine from below with jack with wooden block on top *
5) remove right-hand mount and lift out mounting bracket (have to
play a bit with lifting and lowering engine as this is done)
6) use a large pair of pliers to lift up the sliding metal lock
that runs through the center of the timing belt cover. You will have
to play a little with timing cover before it comes out.
7) remove 4 bolts holding crank pulley to crank sprocket. I put
car into 4th and had someone apply the brakes to prevent crank from
turning. then with pulley out remove lower timing cover (held by four
bolts).
*> 8) put car in neutral and rotate crankshaft clockwise until slot
on crank sprocket lines up with slot on the
block.
**9) check to see if the timing holes in the camshaft sprockets
(at 6 o'clock for left cam and at 8 o'clock for right cam) are lined up with
the corresponding holes in the cylinder head. If not, then rotate crank pulley
again clockwise until slots on sprocket and in block align and again check cam
timing holes. If your timing belt was/is intact all three timing marks (crank,
intake cam and exhaust cam) should align now.
Continued in next posting...
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