89 mi16 timing belt renewal part -3

Anup Pahari (apahari@erols.com)
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 12:10:57 -0500

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PS: the final part was mailed yestarday and is wrongly labeled "Part -4"

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Subject: 3rd of four-part documentation on Mi16 timing belt replacement

15) This is also a good time to remove and inspect the water pump.
I replaced mine. Its held by five bolts and can be got to only with
rear tension pulley removed.

16) install new water pump and gasket, and new or repacked tension
pulleys. leave tension pulley allen bolt loosely fastened

17) install new timing belt, starting at left cam and ending at water
pump with the two tension pulleys sitting on the outer face of belt.
Use timing marks on new belt if you want to but its not necessary if
the cams are locked tight. I did it just to make double sure. the two
single timing marks on the belt line up on the teeth diagonally opposite
to each of the cam timing holes. **

18) First tension the front pulley using the same square key that opens
the oil filter (i have a snap on) and tighten the allen. Next rotate the
rear pulley until all free play is gone and then tighten with allen. **

19) remove all locking pins and with car in neutral rotate crankshaft
one full turn of the belt. Then recheck if the timing holes all line up
again. If they do, then recheck tension. Without the use of peugeot
special Seem gauge Haynes suggests a tension level where the belt can
just be twisted through 45 degrees on its longest run (i.e. between the
right cam and the front tension pulley). To get to the correct tension
I used a combination of front and rear pulley adjustments, but more the
front i have to say. Adjusting tension is not very complicated, and
according to at least two long time Peugeot mechanics I consult, does
not require a Seem gauge to do right. Still,
I have not decided if I should take it to dealer to have tension set by
a gauge. Any suggestions?

continued in next posting....
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