First, use a volt meter to measure the voltage between the battery (+)
and (-) terminal posts. It should be reading at +12.5 to +12.8 volts.
Any voltage less than +12 volts means battery problem.
With the car running, measure the voltage again, it should be somewhere
around +13 volts. This indicates that the alternator is in working
order.
If both battery and alternator are in good working order, then the
problem could be the thermo-resistance in the battery cable. Every
conductor has a small resistance and the resistance may increase with
temperature. Any increase in battery cable resistance will cause a
voltage drop (Voltage drop = Crank Current * Cable resistance) to the
starter. A quick check is to replace the battery cable to the starter.
Also check the return (-) cable to the engine body to ensure a solid
ground return back the battery cell.
K'pla,
Seng Hong
Dayton, OH
'85 505 GL SW
On Sat, 26 Jun 1999 03:02:13 -0700 (PDT) Trygve D Oye
<tryg@u.washington.edu> writes:
>Well, since the insurance company is closed for the weekend I can
>relax
>and look to the starter problem I seem to now have. I've had a very
>anemic starter for some time now, but it has always gotten the job
>done.
>My car has become famous among my friends who all wait in anticipation
>for
>the sound of the starter--sort of like a really slow tire shop lug
>wrench.
>Lately, it has become apparent that the starting system always works
>when
>the car is cold, or not had a chance to reach operating temp. It
>seems
>that the hotter the car is allowed to become, the lower my chance of
>getting it to start again becomes. I've concluded this by several
>tests.
>If I try to start the car while it's hot I seem to have symptoms
>similar
>to a dead battery (starter slows to an eventual halt), but if I let it
>sit a while, it will start (although with different levels of
>performance
>depending on the temp of the engine).
>
>Here is what I wonder. Could the starter cable be corroded internally
>to
>the point where they contract enough when cold to maintain their
>ability
>to carry the current and as the temp increases, the cable expands and
>separates inside? Far fetched? I thought that I heard postings of
>such a
>problem previously. I really don't know what to do. I can hardly
>find
>the starter on the 1.9 liter engine let alone get a good look at it,
>as it
>is well covered by the intake manifold. Has anyone worked on the 405
>starter before? Is it very difficult? I can't find my Haynes manual,
>so
>I can't read up on it. I talked to a Peugeot specialty shop and was
>told
>around $650 for the replacement of the starter--outrageous! This is
>why I
>want to start with the wire theory.
>
>I also wonder if the poor level of electricity available at the
>starter
>may be connected to the apparently low level of electricity available
>in
>the cabin--the cabin lights and clock that dim with the turn signal
>and
>brake lights, the spastic power seat belts. If I press up on the
>power
>window switch with the window already up, thus laboring the motor, the
>SEAT BELT starts freaking out--threatening to hit you upside the head
>on
>your way in, or out of the car.
>
>Could it be that i just need to replace the main power leads from the
>battery. If so, how do I do that with this starter location? HELP?
>
>-Thanks!
>
>-Trygve Oye
>Seattle, WA
>
>'89 405 S
>
>
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